Bonsai - forming, cutting

Placing bonsai

Placing bonsai depends primarily on the type of plants grown in the style of bonsai. So, if you are growing, such as tree tolstyanki, milkweed or adenium, it must be well-lit place with a certain amount of direct sunlight. Cypress trees, rhododendron necessarily require priteneniya or light penumbra. We must immediately qualify that bonsai bought at a store, grown in so-called filtered light, ie in scattered light. If you grow bonsai made in the nature of the tree and shrubs, the conditions must be Maximal close to natural. That means lots of fresh air and sufficient light. |

Chosen for bonsai place largely determines the formation of the crown. If the plant will stand on one side to the light, it will lead to the development of stronger and stronger leafy branches with a sunny side. Therefore, the container should be rotated periodically, so as not to violate the generated style. It is best if the plant will get sun baths in the early morning - on the east window or in the evening on the west. In the period from 11 to 16 hours of the day preferably pritenenie.

If for some reason not enough natural light, the plant will respond well to the additional illumination of fluorescent lights or fitolampami. Determine the lack of light is simple: the leaves are turning toward the light source, a thin shoots, petioles from leaves longer than usual.

Do not place the container on the windy place or under intense flow of air conditioner or fan.

Creating a traditional bonsai

What distinguishes ficus in a pot, on the same ficus formed as a bonsai? Miniature size? There is not only. As already had agreed earlier, signs of the secular grown over the years the tree. Adding some kind of such a tree can and from the plant, which 2-3 years, and that 10-20 years. Everything depends on the desired thickness of the barrel. Obviously, the thicker the trunk, the older plant. The old plants, he not only thickened but is covered with bark. What would zaimet such a plant must either grow it for many years, or found in nature. The obtained tree dug out, cut off the roots, some leaves and put in a container.

To make the trunk thickening resort to certain methods. The first is that the trunk of a tree at the bottom closely drag wire, but not so much to break it, but to have been crushed, only the upper fabric and Sap not been violated. When the trunk above win seats thickens, remove the wire. Another method is appropriate when the barrel is too long. In the right place undercut cortex, ie remove a circular strip of bark (cambium) of about 1-1,5 cm, and planted a tree in a deep pot to a place with the cut turned out to be underground. After some time, at this place formed roots. Then the trunk is cut below these roots, and plants are transplanted into a container for bonsai. The development of new roots may take a year. Another difference between the true bonsai are rooted, towering above the ground. This is achieved by the fact that the roots of transplants raise the above and not covered with earth. To form the desired shape of the roots as possible with the help of the wire. In nature, usually on a tree can distinguish the main branches, which do not grow straight up and tilted or nearly horizontal. With the formation of bonsai, this is achieved through a cut, when the stem leaves two - three main branches, and the direction they attach with wire. In addition, the shape of the main branches should be evident, therefore, prevents excessive oblistvlennost, leaves thin out and the main branches from the base of new shoots and remove leaves.

The final image of bonsai soil attached to the shelter of natural elements. Her cover or moss, or sprinkled with sand or gravel. What to cover the soil, depends on the type of plant. Since conifers will look more natural on the white sand, foliage on the ground covered with moss. Succulents nice on the gravel.

Very often the composition of bonsai complement razlichnyim figures, which constitute a Chinese peasant, a Chinese girl, a house in the Chinese or Japanese style, etc.

Formation of plants and planting

I repeat - options for obtaining bonsai can be only two - if you bought already-formed bonsai, then you just continue to look after him, and if you yourself are building a bonsai from a suitable house plant or specially grown seedlings.

In any case, for the cultivation of bonsai are suitable only healthy plants with strong and well developed root system, with a clearly defined command line branches start forming plants can be two or three years. That it is held in the spring when tree buds appear.

You must first define the style of bonsai, which depends on the appearance of the plant. Sometimes the difficulties with the formation of the appearance due to the fact that man is bad, what branch, and in what direction will start to grow after cutting. Therefore worth to remember one simple rule: the stronger and more actively growing shoots of the uppermost buds on the shoots. Ie on the plant as a whole reaches the tip of the bushes and faster and the tree grows in height faster than in width. The same goes for the side branch buds at the ends of the shoots grow more active than the lower. If you cut the top of the kidney, then begin to grow actively, the one that has remained below.

All this is because the external buds and leaves around them gets more light. That is why the shoot actively developing buds, which are located on the upper side of branches and grow up, but if we talk about plants in general, the thicker and faster growing side facing the light. Step by step

• 1. First, inspect the premises and remove all tree dry twigs. And as the branches at the bottom of the barrel. Isolate the canopy of a tree three main branches, usually leave the three branches, the tops of which form an equilateral triangle. Now you need to remove all the branches between the selected three.
• 2. If you want to grow a tree inclined, you'll need wire, soft enough that it could bend his hands, but strong enough to keep it bent under the weight of branches and trunk.
• 3. Now you need to release the upper part of the roots from the ground and gently tilt the barrel to the extent necessary. One end of the wire deepened and fixed in the soil at the base of the trunk from inside the bend. If the tree is not simply tilting, and met in the cascade style, so the barrel would be bent strongly enough. Firmly holding the trunk round his wire, which should fit fairly tightly, but not disturbing and not barking. Coils should not bear too much not too rare, so that the bent barrel does not get out of turns. Thus entwines the trunk to the ground left by the branches. To crown tilted tree is not hung in the bottom, like a broom, a wire must be maintained in the right direction and.
• 4. Making the turn of wire around the branches, gently straighten the thin and fragile shoots, so as not to break off them. Moreover, to the main wire will primatyvat more pieces of wire, creating the framework required shape bonsai. The ends of the wire can bend down or put them on pieces of conventional erasers that they are not scratched hands and not hurt the plant.
• Length of wire must be at least a half times more winding plot. The angle of bending the wire to the line of flight or the stem, determines the frequency of revolutions - ideally it should be 45 °. Here we must mention that form a tree or shrub with thin and tender bark or fragile leaves, as well as bonsai with thorny shoots, not wrapped with wire around the stems and trunk, but simply is applied to it and fasten or bind (woolen threads or lengths of wire in the winding).
• 5. Wire bent into a tree must be at least 1,5-2 years. If you remove the wire earlier, the trunk can return to its original position. Wire on the branches removed earlier than with the barrel - it is enough 6-8 months. Shaping the direction of thin and delicate branches can use a regular wire, but you can use the wire in a sheath - the one which is usually associated cords of household appliances and computers.
• In some quite complex forms of bonsai, but the trunk and branches with wire is formed and the direction and shape of roots, usually if they are oddly protruding over the surface of the soil.
• 6. When the correct form of the plant is reached, it can be transplanted from the pot in the saucer. First, drain holes are closed with clay shards, convex side up. Then at the bottom of the stack a layer of moss or chopped roots of fern. Then a small layer of prepared soil mix.
• 7. Now you need to cut the roots. First, we examine the root system, determining whether the roots of the healthy - healthy roots are light slice (white or light yellow). Crop damaged roots. Your task is to form a root system so that it was evenly distributed in all directions. If the root system is fibrous, ie has a weakly pronounced central root and many small roots, it's easy to evenly cut and diluted. If you have a long taproot and poor lateral shoots, the need for additional methods. First, cut off the lower part of the root, and the remainder is formed. You can use the same wire, or wire brackets U-shaped - for plants with soft and malleable roots. The root is fixed in the soil brace from the edge of saucers, then bends horizontally to the center of bowls.

Prepared by the plant must be carefully placed in a container, the roots to spread and cover the soil mixture. If there is a possibility that the trunk of the plant is not kept firmly in the ground and can be displaced and stagger, then it requires additional fixing. With the peg as a common house plants are difficult to make because small depth of the bowls, so the most painless way - to fix the barrel after transplantation with heavy stones.

After transplanting the plant carefully watered. Plants that have removed many of the roots at first sprinkled with great caution, that would not cause decay. Perhaps the earth will end and tough and it will have to top up the top. When the land settles, it is sufficiently sealed and fastening tree stones can be removed.

The formation of crown

The main methods of providing a dowry and save desired shape miniature trees, are pruning and prischipka.

The main thing you need to know: pruning and prischipka lead not just to the branching and the growth of new, more delicate shoots with small leaves.

Pruning is the removal of large branches and shoots, hold it annually, usually in the middle or end of winter. Before you cut the branches, to represent the final form of the plant, because shoots do not grow back at the old place like the hair on the head man. This art of bonsai involves a long contemplation, study of the shape of the plant, the submission of its forms. Every leaf or twig deserve reflection "to be or not to be."

An important rule - the flowering plant is cut just after flowering, most often it occurs in the autumn in late September - the month of October. Neatness in all that relates to trim - acute natochenny and disinfected tools - the guarantee of health. The cut should dry out and zarubtsovyvatsya, so it is best if prepared garden var. A thin layer of it to carry on the cut. It disinfects and dried, and moreover the cut is hardly noticeable on the bark, which makes it possible not to spoil the appearance. If the garden vara no, can seal the cut medical plaster until it heal.

Trimming - simply trim or shortening of elongated shoots to maintain shape during the entire period of growth. Prischipku conducted in the spring, with the growth of new shoots, it allows the fork crown, and to create a plant in the right style.

Making the odds of miniature plants provide just the annual prischipkoy new shoots. Frequency prischipki and its feasibility depends on the type of cultivated plants. For some young tree only enough to spring prischipki, others will need to repeatedly pinch back the tops of the shoots to make the desired shape for the summer, and even throughout the year. The more you cut and pinch bonsai, the smaller and denser formed crown.